How to get rid of a kink

Causes and ways to remove play in the steering column

As a rule, even a motorist without much experience in repairing his "iron horse" is able to identify the cause of the problem on his own, and even get rid of play in the steering elements on his own. Carrying out diagnostics of the node will require from the motorist:

1. Fix the vehicle on a flat surface and look under the hood;
2. Lock wheels as in straight ahead position;
3. Return to the passenger compartment, from where the steering wheel jerkily turn from side to side. The angle of rotation should not be large. To carry out these manipulations, you will need the help of a friend;
4. Inspect all steering components by probing them with your hands, during which the cause and area of ​​\u200b\u200bbreakage are found out;
5. You can detect a breakdown by a specific shift that makes itself felt when the wheel is loaded.

Checking the backlash consists in fixing on the ruler of the steering wheel at the moment where the front wheels begin to turn to the right - you need to set a mark on the steering wheel, for example, an elastic band or a pencil note. Then you need to turn the steering wheel to the left until the front wheels start turning in this direction, and also make a mark. Then measure the difference in the length of these marks.

Do-it-yourself play check

Having carried out diagnostic work, the cause of play is usually such defects as:

• Worn steering wheel nut;
• Wear of various tips and rods.

Worn steering wheel nut

A loose steering wheel nut is probably the most innocuous thing that could happen to a car. The cause of this defect is most often the frequent adjustment of this assembly, or the nut was not tightened tightly enough for some other reason.

To eliminate this misunderstanding, you only need to remove the casing from the fastener and, having selected the appropriate socket wrench, tighten the nut properly. If an airbag module is installed on the car, most likely it will have to be removed, because without this you can’t even get close to the steering wheel mount. All ongoing work requires special delicacy, and most importantly, do not forget in time disconnect battery terminals .

Tightening the steering wheel nut

A loose lock in the steering wheel often causes accelerated wear of the splines on the joint, which is fraught with an accident. If the repair has been postponed for a long time, then this situation is not uncommon. In this case, the replacement of worn parts should be carried out as soon as possible.

Worn wormshaft spline

Worn universal joints seem to rub the steering wheel, creating a "gear" in the intermediate shaft. This leads to a decrease in vehicle controllability, especially when driving at high speed. Usually, it is not possible to repair the components of the intermediate shaft on its own, and its complete replacement is necessary.

Another type of this malfunction is the situation when the nut of the steering assembly is loosened at the point of attachment to the body, less often when the rubber gaskets between the body and the steering mechanism have sagged or worn out. In this case, it is enough to tighten the loose nut or replace the rubber elements.

Adjusting shim

If an increased gap is found in the design of the gears or between the rack and guides, it means that the wear process from the interaction of the rack and gears amplifies something, for example, a torn anther.

Rod wear

This element in the steering system is distinguished by its vulnerability compared to others, since their functioning is associated with difficult conditions for their continuous operation, in which the elements of the mechanism have to deal with flows of water, mud, sand, etc.

Old and new tie rods

Malfunctions in this assembly are complicated by the fact that in the ball joint of the tip this leads to an expansion of axial and radial clearances, due to which the entire structure becomes unusable, and this makes the car uncontrollable. It is easy to imagine what can happen to a car at high speed with such a breakdown.

However, you can try to repair it yourself. To do this, it is necessary to change the rubber-metal hinges through which the assembly is attached to the steering system.

Rubber-to-metal joint

It is quite simple to determine this defect - steering wheel turns will invariably be accompanied by a specific metallic knock. These hinges are pressed in, therefore, pressing equipment will be required with which new ones will be pressed in. On the other hand, it is possible to retighten the bolts securing the inner ends of the links to the assembly, using the manufacturer's instructions.

Replacing the rubber joints

Play in the steering system may be due to loose fastening of the adjusting rods in the toe system. The cause is usually loose tightening of these rods after calibration of the toe angle, and if the problem is not properly addressed, this rod can fly out of the tip.

Increasingly, there are cars on the market where the swing arms are connected not by welding, but by bolts. In this case, the loosening of these bolts often leads to the described situation. To find out the final cause, in this case it is recommended to adjust the steering by dismantling the wheels and checking all the mounting bolts.

Causes and ways to remove backlash in the gearbox

Detecting this malfunction is quite simple - when starting the car from a place or shifting gears, distinct bumps or clicks will be heard. It often occurs when a foreign car's mileage is close to 100,000 kilometers, and for the brainchild of the domestic auto industry - close to 50,000 km.

Vehicles with a pair of drive axles are particularly prone to this fault. If the fault is not triggered before the critical moment, then it is not emergency in nature.

Reducer

Methods for detecting a defect are quite common for all cars - measure the backlash in the gearbox. The problem has a specific value that can be measured, so if you have something knocking, it’s far from a fact that it’s knocking in the gearbox - get ready for the fact that you will have to measure not in one or two nodes.

You can see more about measuring backlash in the gearbox in the video:

Checking a simple gearbox

Work begins with installing the machine on a viewing hole and locking blocks. Note that it is impossible to measure the amount of play on a suspended wheel - in this case, the measurements of the play will include not only the gearbox data, but also the amount of play:

• Cardan shaft components;
• Differential;
• Transfer case parts;
• Gearbox parts.

Thus, when measuring from a suspended wheel, many transmission backlashes are erroneously measured, which does not guarantee the detection of excess backlash in the gearbox, and in the case of repair work based on such diagnostics, the replacement or repair work of the gearbox shaft may completely prevent desired results. The reason for this outcome is clear.

Even if this method of measurement did not affect the extraneous play of the transmission elements, the results of this measurement would not be accurate, since it requires accurate information in degrees, and in this case not everyone has a protractor at hand, and this will only be approximate froze. On the other hand, even if you measure the length of the divergence between the serifs on the wheel and the floor of the garage, then most likely, such a distance will be largely determined by the radius of this wheel.

The correct sequence of measurements:

1. We transfer the gearbox to neutral;
2. We go to the inspection hole, where the play on the flange is measured:
3. Unscrew the cardan shaft until it stops in any direction,
4. We mark it on the body and flange.
5. The cardan shaft is unscrewed in the other direction, also to the stop, after which the length of the segment between the marks becomes visible, which must be accurately measured in millimeters.

However, this example is not universal. Here, we analyzed the measurements of the backlash in the gearbox of the bridge, mounted in the beam of the bridge with semi-axes of the classic type, known to the motorist in the line of VAZ cars.

This measurement of gear backlash is called "clean measurement". Nevertheless, its cleanliness is rather conditional, since in this type of main axle, not only the gearbox contributes to the appearance of a backlash, but also, albeit slightly ground off the splines of the semi-axes. However, the influence of splines can be ignored, since they will increase the play by no more than 1-2 millimeters.

We will talk about the allowable amount of backlash in the gearbox a little lower.

Measuring backlash in a gearbox with drive shafts

Another variation in the design of the drive axles of the gearbox are axles with drives. For those who are familiar with the device of the domestic Niva, such a system will not be a discovery.

This type of axles, as well as the procedure for measuring the backlash in the gearbox, differs significantly from the previous design, since the condition of the CV joints also affects its value. When diagnosing, it often turns out that it was the elements of the CV joint that became the main cause of the backlash, and the gearbox shaft does not have increased backlash. However, the incorrect procedure for replacing the backlash in this bridge is not a rare reason for erroneous replacement of the gearbox.

For accurate diagnosis of these bridges, two measurements are made:

1. Preliminary, carried out by analogy with the previous measurement, which will show the cumulative play of the bridge. It will include both the gearbox play and the CV joint play. However, the purpose of diagnostics is not only the length of the backlash in the gearbox, but to identify its cause, which may be hidden in other nodes.

Measurements are carried out in several stages:

• the cardan shaft is turned out to the stop in any direction, two marks are applied - on the body and on the flange;
• the cardan shaft is turned all the way in the other direction, after which the length of the divergence of the marks becomes visible;

The resulting segment from mark to mark is the total axle play. This value is measured in millimeters, which is most conveniently done with a protractor or a small ruler.

2. For the second measurement, you will need an assistant, without whose actions nothing will work. The main and only task of your assistant is to fix the drive from movements in the hands. This is not easy to do - with both hands you should take hold of the CV joints, and with rotational movements in one direction "screw" them, at the same time determining the backlash, for which you will have to literally "hang" on the CV joints.

As a result, we have two indicators - total and net play. Usually, the number of net backlash is much less, 3-5 times. If this is the case, then the problem is more likely in worn actuators, and not in the gearbox. In this case, in addition to adjusting the gearbox, it will be necessary to replace the drives.

Allowable backlash in the gearbox

Answering the question about the allowable backlash, it will not be a mistake to say that the smaller it is, the better it is. A rare motorist can achieve the complete elimination of backlash in the gearbox, and no matter what we do, 2-3 millimeters “whatever one may say” remain.

It is safe to say that the benchmark for backlash in the gearbox will be exactly these 2-3 millimeters, with which the vast majority of cars leave the assembly line.

Turning to higher indicators, you should start from the numbers of 9-11 mm. Backlash, the value of which fluctuates in this range, as a rule, does not require special actions, and even without special diagnostics it will not declare itself. Rarely, but still there are cases when a similar or even smaller backlash causes inconvenience - in such cases, the sound is very thin and loud.

A backlash of 10-11 millimeters usually occurs when the car's mileage approaches the figure of 50-60,000 kilometers, but there are exceptions to the rule - for example, when the brainchild of the Russian car industry, like the VAZ 7, already after 10-15,000 kilometers has a backlash of 15-25 millimeters, or, conversely, when a 6 with a mileage of more than 100,000 kilometers does not have a backlash of even 5 millimeters.

Turning to specific recommendations, we note:

• If the backlash is more than 11-15 millimeters, then no urgent work is required;
• If the amount of play is more than 22-25 millimeters, then it should be eliminated as soon as possible;
• If the amount of play is more than 40 millimeters, then this is definitely an emergency, the repair of which may even include the replacement of differential elements.

Should there be play in the gears of the differential

Hello everyone. Today got around to repairing the differential. But first, a little theory of the issue.
The problem, like many, is play when the jacked wheel rotates and unhealthy knocks and bumps in the transmission when driving. Many, even in the service, attribute this to worn-out internal grenades. This is partly true, worn internal hinges also manifest themselves as shocks. But this is very easily diagnosed by simply turning the two halves of the hinge relative to each other. In my case, the internal hinges are healthy, without even a hint of any play. But the blows were still there, and quite sensitive. And it was precisely the play in the differential, which was confirmed by the autopsy. Here is a video I took before starting work.

Now to practice. It is very desirable to work on the lift and together. Of course, you can twist one in the pit. But take my word for it, it will be very difficult. You can see the spare parts kit here.
Since I almost did not take a photo, my hands were in oil for the most part, I will simply describe the order of work.
1. Raise the car and remove the front wheels.
2. We wrap and separate the ball joints of the levers from the hub on both sides.
3. Drain the gearbox oil by unscrewing the sump. We unscrew the bolts gradually, because at first the oil does not seem to flow at all, and then it erupts in a stream)
4. Using direct mounting, we pull out the internal hinges from the gearbox. We bring the hinges up to the box so that they do not interfere.
5. Unscrew the jet thrust bracket of the engine (well, or the bottom cushion). We take out the axis of the backstage and remove the bracket to the side.
6. Thoroughly clean the slotted nut on the left side, and the plate with 5 bolts on the right side from centuries of dirt. Those. we are preparing for dismantling, you can douse it all with WD-40 or something else.
7. Mark the position of the castle nut! If you are not going to change the bearings, then you will just need to align the marks later. Loosen the castle nut retainer.
8. Unscrew everything that was poured) I advise you to first remove the castellated nut a couple of turns. It's very hard at the beginning. After that, you can completely unscrew the right plate with 5 bolts. The plate is held after unscrewing only due to the rubber ring. Therefore, boldly, but gently loosen it and pull it out.
9. Then, while supporting the differential by the gear, you can completely unscrew the nut. Achtung! Catch the differential! He can only fly down! Diff is in your hands.
10. We clamp the differential by the gear of the main pair through a pair of boards in a vise and unscrew the bolts. The bolts sit on a threaded retainer. They are very reluctant.
11. Turn the differential over so that the gear of the main pair is at the bottom and, leaning on the board, separate the gear from the differential housing with light blows. She just sticks to the oil.
12. Using a suitable drill as a drift, we knock out the retainer of the axis of the satellites. We put the drill on the side of the differential marking. Those. knock out the gears.
13. The axis of the satellites sits without much tension, it is simply pushed out with a finger.
14. Very carefully turn both satellite gears simultaneously by 90 degrees, thereby ensuring their removal from the diff body.
15. Pull out the remaining gears.

All sorted. We change the washers, the axis of the satellites, the axle lock, oil seals, rubber rings and some other hell of a bald one and assemble everything in the reverse order. Set the differential bolts on the threaded lock out of harm's way. The tightening torque is up to the first bunch) Namely, 70nM. Trust me, that's a lot, given that the diff in the boards doesn't want to stand rigid. I think it's unnecessary to talk about cleanliness during assembly. You don't need sand in a box or leaks, do you?
A few pictures of the process. Sorry, but there was simply no one to take a picture)

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Constantly breaks gear 9T, they are expensive, what to do?

• Replace with original and compatible HPI
• Using a center differential will reduce the load on this assembly and the gears will not break.
• Change to Hot Racing helical . Forget about the problem.

Differential, its types, torsion, planetary.

I have a backlash in the diff, is that how it should be?

• Backlash cup in diff case

1. A little play (1-1.5 mm) of the cup, in the differential case, this may be normal.
2. If you have an aluminum diff box, and on the side of the gear the play of the cup is less than on the side of the diff box, then you have broken the diff box with the cup. The differential box must be replaced with a plastic one with a metal insert, or any compatible one.

• Diff case bearing

I keep breaking the bearing on the differential box, what should I do?

• Just replace the 10x16x5 bearing with a new one.
• Grind the neck of the differential case to a diameter of 8mm, and install the bearing 8x16x5.
• Replace the differential housing with plastic with a metal insert , this housing is designed for a less whimsical 8x16x5 bearing. Forget about the problem.
• Use a similar diff housing from another manufacturer *

What do the Z260 pins break - PIN 2.5x12mm?

• Replace with new original
• Replace with another manufacturer's pin e.g. Kyosho 2,6x14mm , they are slightly thicker and therefore stronger (no breakage was observed). Forget about problem
• Make a pin out of a round spoke of an old Soviet umbrella (no breakage was observed), a 2.6 mm lead needle (G12), a 2.5 mm drill, a needle bearing, or any piece of iron that is suitable in diameter.

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Differential repair (how to get rid of play)

Message Marta75 »Armed Forces Mar 05, 2017 9:36 PM

Re: Differential Repair (how to get rid of play)

Re: Differential repair (how to get rid of play)

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Re: Differential repair (how to get rid of backlash)

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Message Templar » Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:51 am

48 am

Re: Differential Repair (how to get rid of play)

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Re: How to get rid of play)

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from backlash)

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Re: Differential Repair (how to get rid of backlash)

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